Cambodia is a fascinating place. Angkor archaeological park is usually at the top of every tourist's "to do" list, and rightly so. It's one of the few places which not only deserves the hype but exceeds it. The size of the park, along with the number and scale of the temples, is mind-blowing - and what's more, each one is different from the last. Just as interesting, however, are the relics of more recent regimes - Tuol Sleng (S21 prison) in Phnom Penh, Bokor hill station near Kampot and the faded beach resort of Kep. Despite the appalling events of recent history and evident poverty, we found the Khmer to be a friendly bunch with a good sense of humour.
We caught the boat from Chau Doc in Vietnam to Phnom Penh, then cycled to Sihanoukville via Kep and Kampot. After catching the bus back to Phnom Penh we cycled north to Siem Reap. Finally, we caught the bus to Poipet on the border.
General guide
- Drive on the right.
- It's more expensive than the other SE Asian countries - budget around $35 per couple/per day for food and accommodation in tourist areas (which is where you'll spend most of your time).
- Everyone accepts US dollars; remember to take small denominations. It's better to pay in dollars as prices don't fluctuate and you will be given change in riel.
- Roads are always two-lane and sealed for almost the entire route, although the quality and age of the seal varies greatly. Sometimes there's a hard shoulder.
- Road markers are infrequent and so old you can't read the numbers.
- Off the major routes there are few road signs or place name signs.
- People are cheerful and friendly but in tourist areas the vendors and beggars can be very persistent.
- Older people often speak French.
- It's extremely hot and dry - start early to avoid the heat.
- Sugar cane drinks are widely available and very good cycling fuel.
- There are a few good bike shops in Phnom Penh which sell second-hand Western bikes.
Vocabulary
- hello (formal)= johm riap sua (choom reap soo-ah)
- hello (informal)= sua s'dei (soo-ah suh-day-ee)
- thank you = aw kohn (or koon)
- sorry = sohm toh (som - rhymes with bomb - toe)
- bicycle = kong (kong)
- toilet = ben tup tuk (ben tup tuk)
- I am vegetarian = khnyohm tawm sait (k'nyom torm sat)
- 1,2,3,4,5 = muy (moy), pii (pay), bei (buy), buan (boo-an), bram (bram)