| Quick facts | |
|---|---|
| Transport | Boat |
| Cost | B2500 per person (2 day journey) |
| Blog |
19th Dec - Boat cartels and baguettes 22nd Dec - Loving Luang Prabang 25th Dec - Happy Christmas from Laos |
| Gallery |
Luang Prabang, part I Luang Prabang, part II |
The journey
We left Pak Beng at dawn and arrived in Luang Prabang by 1pm after a visit to Pak Ou caves (an interesting stop but not worth a trip in their own right). Luang Prabang is a peaceful and elegant place - a World Heritage Site and the highlight of Laos - so plan to spend a few days here. There are many guesthouses and hotels in town but they can fill up, especially over Christmas. Restaurants are more expensive but of a higher standard. The night market has a K5000 vegetable buffet and excellent shopping.As elsewhere in the country, the Lao Development Bank sells $US but dispenses the money half in kip, half in $US; other banks just sell kip. The LDB is open 8.30am to 3.30pm from Monday to Friday and 9am to 3am at the weekend; they take 3% commission. Several businesses will do cash advances. Travel agencies will arrange a Vietnam visa, which requires a specified entry date into Vietnam. The best deal we found was $35 for a visa processed in 4 working days, although 2 and 3 day turnaround is available.
Several day trips are possible. Kuang Si waterfall is 30km from town along a hilly, dirt road with frequent traffic which looked like it was being resurfaced. The All Lao Elephant Camp is a 20km journey on a dirt road which is less hilly and has little traffic. You can also ride around the villages near the airport - the roads are flat and quiet and there are paper making and silk weaving workshops.
When we unloaded the bikes from the boat, three of Kat's spokes were broken on the rear wheel under the gear cassette. There are many small shops selling bike parts and a bike repair shop opposite the hospital, but none had 28" wheel spokes. We bought spokes from Robert Young who runs cycle tours from Tiger Trails and imports bike parts from Chiang Mai. His mechanic replaced the spokes and serviced our bikes for $10. Robert was also a great source of information.
The rooms
Cold RiverK70,000 for twin room, bathroom with hot water.
Very friendly and comfortable. Slippers in the room, free bananas and water, free rice soup on every 4th night.
Villa Sokxai
Sakkalin Rd, Luang Prabang
Tel: 071 254 309
$30 for double room with air-con, bathroom with hot water, TV with movies, basic breakfast.
Upmarket but not worth the price. Chilly in the mornings until the mist cleared.